Introduction
Skin aging is a multifaceted biological process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic aging, a genetically programmed phenomenon, manifests as fine wrinkles and a gradual thinning of the epidermis [1]. Superimposed on this is extrinsic aging, primarily driven by environmental aggressors such as chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation, leading to more pronounced signs like deep wrinkles, skin laxity, and hyperpigmentation. Regardless of the origin, a hallmark of skin aging is the progressive deterioration of the dermal layer, characterized by a reduction in elasticity and overall dermal atrophy, largely attributed to a decline in collagen content. This decline, coupled with the fragmentation of collagen and other extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins, contributes significantly to the visible changes associated with aging [2].
Collagen and elastin are two fundamental proteins within the skin’s ECM that play critical roles in maintaining its structural integrity and youthful appearance. Collagen, the most abundant protein in the dermis, provides tensile strength and functions as a structural scaffold, contributing to the skin’s mechanical stability and resistance to deformation. Type I collagen constitutes the majority (80–90%) of the skin’s collagen content, underscoring its importance in dermal structure and support. Elastin, on the other hand, is crucial for the skin’s elasticity, enabling it to stretch and recoil, thus providing flexibility and resilience. The age-related decrease in the production of both collagen and elastin, along with an increase in their degradation, directly contributes to the visual and functional decline of the skin, leading to wrinkles, sagging, and a loss of its characteristic bounce [2].
In response to these age-related changes, a significant market has emerged for anti-aging cosmetics, products marketed to mitigate the signs of skin aging. These products often claim to influence the production of collagen and elastin as a key mechanism of action [3]. Consumer interest in these products is substantial, reflecting a desire to counteract the visible effects of aging and maintain skin health [4]. The regulatory landscape for anti-aging claims in cosmetics is overseen by bodies like the Food and Drug Administration, which distinguishes between cosmetics intended to affect appearance and drugs intended to affect the structure or function of the body.
An analysis of the molecular mechanisms by which anti-aging cosmetics influence the processes of collagenogenesis (collagen synthesis) and elastogenesis (elastin synthesis) in the skin is actual and has both scientific and applied interest. The objectives include an examination of underlied biological processes, identification of common active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics, research into their molecular mechanisms of action within skin cells, evaluation of their efficacy based on scientific studies, exploration of the influence of different cosmetic formulations and delivery mechanisms, investigation of potential side effects associated with their use, and a summary of expert opinions and consensus statements from dermatological and cosmetic science organizations.
This review aims to improve medical cosmetology practice by providing the current scientific understanding regarding the molecular mechanisms through which anti-aging cosmetics influence collagenogenesis and elastogenesis, the fundamental processes responsible for maintaining skin’s structural integrity and elasticity [1, 2].
Aim: to investigate the molecular mechanisms by which anti-aging cosmetic products influence collagen and elastin synthesis in the skin. The research seeks to synthesize existing research on the biological processes of collagen and elastin synthesis, identify key active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetic products, elucidate their mechanisms of action at the cellular level, evaluate their efficacy based on available scientific evidence, discuss the impact of formulation and delivery methods, highlight potential side effects, and summarize expert opinions in the field.
Object and methods of research
This review article was prepared through a comprehensive examination of existing scientific literature, including research articles, reviews, and reports from dermatological and cosmetic science organizations. Using bibliographic databases Web of Science, Scopus, and PubMed, a narrative review of literature focusing on the molecular changes in dermal components during aging and the impact of anti-aging treatments on these processes was performed. Systematic reviews and meta-analyses of studies of anti-aging cosmetic ingredients in vivo and in vitro, as well as randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled trials and comparative studies published from June 2020 to March 2025, were selected for further analysis.
The information presented is based on the synthesis of findings from in vitro studies (cell cultures) and in vivo studies (on living organisms, including human clinical trials) that investigated the effects of various active ingredients commonly found in anti-aging cosmetics on collagen and elastin production.
The review encompasses the molecular mechanisms of action of these ingredients within skin cells, their reported efficacy in improving skin aging parameters, the influence of different cosmetic formulations and delivery systems on their effectiveness, and the potential side effects associated with their use.
Expert opinions and guidelines from relevant scientific and regulatory bodies were also considered to provide a balanced and informed perspective on the topic.
Results and Discussion
The biological processes of collagenogenesis and elastogenesis in the skin
Collagenogenesis
Collagen synthesis, the process of creating collagen, occurs primarily within specialized cells called fibroblasts located in the dermis, the deeper layer of the skin. Fibroblasts are essential for maintaining the skin’s structural framework and play a crucial role in skin regeneration [2]. These cells are highly responsive to their surrounding environment, exhibiting sensitivity to the physical tension of the ECM as well as to various biochemical stimuli and signaling pathways [5]. This responsiveness suggests that cosmetic ingredients may exert their effects by influencing fibroblast activity.
The intracellular phase of collagen synthesis begins with the transcription of collagen genes into messenger RNA (mRNA) [1, 3]. The mRNA then moves into the cytoplasm, where it interacts with ribosomes to undergo translation, resulting in the formation of pre-procollagen chains in the endoplasmic reticulum (ER). These newly synthesized polypeptide chains, known as preprocollagen, possess a signal peptide at their N-terminus that is subsequently removed within the ER. Following this, the polypeptide chains undergo crucial post-translational modifications, including proline and lysine residues hydroxylation. This step is catalyzed by hydroxylase enzymes, which require ascorbic acid (vitamin C) as an essential cofactor. Vitamin C’s role in this process is critical for the stability and cross-linking of collagen molecules [2]. Additionally, selected hydroxyl groups on lysine residues undergo glycosylation with galactose and glucose [5]. Once these modifications are complete, three pro-alpha chains assemble within the ER, twisting together in a zipper-like fashion from the C-terminus towards the N-terminus to form a triple helix structure known as procollagen [5]. This triple helix configuration, consisting of three left-handed helices wound into a right-handed coil, is characteristic of the collagen molecule. The procollagen molecule is then transported from the ER to the Golgi apparatus, where it undergoes further modifications and is packaged into secretory vesicles for eventual release into the extracellular space [2, 5].
The extracellular processing of collagen begins with the secretion of procollagen molecules into the space surrounding the cells via exocytosis. Once in the extracellular matrix, enzymes known as collagen peptidases cleave the propeptides from the ends of the procollagen molecule, converting it into tropocollagen. Tropocollagen molecules then spontaneously self-assemble into collagen fibrils, which are further organized into larger collagen fibers [2, 6]. The stability of these collagen fibers is enhanced by the formation of cross-links between adjacent tropocollagen molecules, a process also dependent on vitamin C [1]. In the skin, the most prevalent type of collagen is Type I, accounting for 80–90% of the total collagen content. Type III collagen is the second most abundant type. These collagen types form well-organized networks within the dermis, providing the skin with its overall strength and structural integrity.
Elastogenesis
Elastogenesis, the process by which the skin produces elastin, is another crucial ECM protein responsible for its elasticity [4]. Similar to collagen, elastin is primarily synthesized by fibroblasts located in the dermis. Elastogenesis is a complex process that involves both intracellular and extracellular events, with its peak activity occurring during fetal and early neonatal development, followed by a significant decline with age. Notably, elastin has a very low turnover rate in healthy adult tissue, with an estimated half-life of around 70 years [7].
The intracellular phase of elastogenesis involves the transcription of the elastin gene, leading to the translation of its product, tropoelastin, a soluble and non-glycosylated protein. Tropoelastin monomers are then secreted by fibroblasts into the extracellular environment. The subsequent extracellular assembly of elastin is a highly organized and intricate process. Initially, soluble tropoelastin monomers bind to the fibroblast cell surface through specific cell surface interactions. Following this binding, tropoelastin molecules aggregate into microscopic globules in a process known as coacervation, which requires optimal physiological conditions such as a temperature of 37° C and a pH range of 7–8. These cross-linked bundles of tropoelastin remain associated with the cell surface, where additional tropoelastin is added as elastin is formed. The elastin is then gradually deposited onto fibrillin-rich microfibrils, eventually forming nascent elastic fibers released from the cell surface [4]. Enzymes such as lysyl oxidase facilitate the cross-linking of tropoelastin monomers into mature, insoluble elastin and elastic fibers. Elastic fibers, the functional units providing elasticity to the skin, are primarily composed of elastin and microfibrillar proteins, notably fibrillin [2]. These components work synergistically to provide the skin with its characteristic stretch, recoil, and overall resilience. The complexity of elastin assembly, involving multiple steps and interactions, makes it a more challenging process to stimulate and regulate compared to collagenesis.
Common active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetic products marketed for their effects on collagen and elastin production and the molecular mechanisms of their action in skin cells
Various active ingredients are incorporated into anti-aging cosmetic products to influence collagen and elastin production. These ingredients belong to different chemical classes and demonstrate a variety of mechanisms of action. The active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics influence collagenogenesis and elastogenesis through multiple molecular mechanisms within skin cells, particularly fibroblasts [7].
Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives)
This class includes retinol, retinaldehyde, retinoic acid, and retinyl esters like retinyl palmitate. Retinols are commonly found in over-the-counter (OTC) creams, while retinoids are often present in prescription-based formulations due to their higher potency [8].
Among the most studied anti-aging agents, retinoids exert their effects by penetrating the skin and binding to nuclear retinoic acid receptors (RARs) and retinoid X receptors (RXRs) within the cell nucleus [9, 10]. This activation leads to the regulation of gene expression, resulting in an increased production of collagen and elastin. Furthermore, retinoids have been shown to inhibit the activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), enzymes responsible for the degradation of collagen and elastin, thereby protecting the existing ECM [9]. Retinol, a common retinoid in cosmetics, has specifically been shown to induce elastin gene expression and elastin fiber formation in cultured fibroblasts. It can also increase the skin’s expression of hyaluronic acid, contributing to hydration [11].
In vivo studies have consistently demonstrated that topical retinoids can increase collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles [12]. Specifically, retinol has been shown to increase the mRNA and protein levels of tropoelastin and fibrillin-1, key components of elastic fibers. In vitro research supports these findings, showing that retinol induces elastin gene expression and elastin fiber formation in cultured fibroblasts and increases collagen synthesis [12].
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C)
Various forms of ascorbic acid are used, including L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Ascorbic acid is recognized for its antioxidant properties and its crucial role in collagen synthesis.
As a potent antioxidant, it plays a crucial role in collagen biosynthesis by acting as a cofactor for prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase, enzymes essential for the hydroxylation and subsequent stabilization of collagen fibers [1, 3]. Ascorbic acid also directly activates transcription factors involved in collagen synthesis and stabilizes procollagen mRNA, promoting the production of Type I and Type III collagen. Additionally, it increases the gene expression of collagen and inhibits the synthesis of MMP-1, thus reducing collagen degradation. While vitamin C is essential for collagen production, in vitro studies suggest it may inhibit elastin biosynthesis [4, 7].
Peptides
These short amino acid sequences as signaling molecules can interact with specific receptors on the surface of fibroblasts [13, 14]. This binding triggers intracellular signaling cascades that can stimulate the production of collagen and other ECM components, including elastin [2]. For instance, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 has been shown to promote both collagen and elastin production [15], while palmitoyl tripeptide-5 boosts collagen production by stimulating the synthesis of transforming growth factor-β [16]. Copper peptides like GHK-Cu are also involved in collagen synthesis.
Peptides can act as signaling molecules (examples include palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, and copper peptides) [17]. Peptides are often categorized based on their mechanism, such as signal peptides that stimulate collagen production [13].
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan is included in anti-aging products in various molecular weights and is primarily known for its hydrating properties, but it may also play a role in stimulating collagen and elastin production [18].
This glycosaminoglycan primarily functions by binding and retaining water molecules, providing hydration to the skin. While its primary mechanism is hydration, hyaluronic acid can also interact with cell surface receptors such as CD44, which can influence cell proliferation and the synthesis of ECM components, including potentially supporting collagen production [19].
Bakuchiol
It is a plant-derived compound has emerged as a natural alternative to retinol and it possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and is marketed for its retinol-like anti-aging effects, including potential stimulation of collagen [1, 2].
This compound modulates gene expression related to collagen and ECM formation. It has been shown to upregulate collagen and extracellular matrix formation enzymes and modulate the retinoic acid receptor gene [5]. Furthermore, bakuchiol stimulates cell renewal and activates collagen production. It also possesses significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, contributing to its anti-aging effects [20].
Alpha hydroxy acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) — commonly used in cosmetics include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid [3]. These acids are primarily exfoliants but have also been shown to potentially stimulate collagen production.
These acids primarily work by penetrating the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, and promoting desquamation (the shedding of dead skin cells) [21]. This exfoliation can lead to a smoother skin surface and may also stimulate collagen synthesis in the dermis by activating fibroblasts [21]. Like glycolic and lactic acids, AHAs have been shown to enhance skin rejuvenation by boosting collagen and elastin synthesis [3].
Topical growth factors
These proteins act as signaling molecules that bind to specific receptors on skin cells, including fibroblasts and keratinocytes. This binding activates intracellular signaling pathways involved in cell growth, proliferation, and the synthesis of key structural proteins such as collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid [22].
Skin topical growth factors include proteins like epidermal growth factor, insulin-like growth factor-1, vascular endothelial growth factor, and fibroblast growth factor. Growth factors are signaling molecules that can stimulate cell regeneration and the production of ECM components. For example, epidermal growth factor plays a role in the production of collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin [7, 17], etc.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3)
Niacinamide offers multiple benefits for the skin, including the potential to stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis [23]. It also plays a role in improving skin barrier function and reducing inflammation [24].
This vitamin serves as a precursor to nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+), a crucial coenzyme involved in cellular energy and repair processes [25]. Topical niacinamide has been shown to increase fibroblast production, stimulating collagen synthesis and potentially increasing elastin production. It also enhances the synthesis of other important skin components like keratin and ceramides and can reduce the activity of MMPs [26, 27].
Ceramides
These lipids are essential components of the skin barrier, forming lipid bilayers in the stratum corneum that help retain moisture and protect against external aggressors. By maintaining a healthy skin barrier, ceramides indirectly support optimal skin function, which is necessary for the production of collagen and elastin [28]. Some evidence suggests that certain ceramides, like ceramide AP, may also directly stimulate collagen production [29].
Polyphenols
These plant-derived compounds are potent antioxidants that can neutralize free radicals and reduce oxidative stress, which can damage collagen and elastin. They include green tea extract and resveratrol, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties [30]. Polyphenols may have the potential to stimulate collagen production.
Some polyphenols, such as ellagic acid found in bakuchiol, have shown the ability to increase elastin deposition in fibroblasts in vitro. Additionally, the stimulation of collagen synthesis is a mechanism by which polyphenols can contribute to reducing signs of skin aging [31].
Anti-aging cosmetic ingredients, listed in Table, demonstrate convincing evidence of increased collagen production and positive effects on skin appearance through direct stimulation of fibroblasts and modulation of the ECM gene, which provides instructions for making a protein that is found in most tissues within the extracellular matrix. An important aspect here is the influence of different formulations and delivery mechanisms and potential side effects and limitations associated with the use of these cosmetic ingredients.
Table. Common active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their primary mechanisms of action on collagenogenesis and elastogenesis
| Acting substance | Main action on collagenogenesis |
Main action on elastogenesis |
Side effects |
|---|---|---|---|
| Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) [8–12, 32] | Activate RARs/RXRs, increase gene expression, inhibit MMPs, increase hyaluronic acid | Increase gene expression, promote fiber formation, protect against degradation | Dryness, irritation, redness, peeling, photosensitivity |
| Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) [33] | Cofactor for hydroxylases, stabilizes collagen, increases gene transcription, inhibits MMP-1 | Inhibition | Irritation, redness, tingling, potential yellowing |
| Peptides [13–17] | Signal molecules bind to fibroblast receptors, stimulating the synthesis of collagen and other ECM components | Some peptides promote elastin production | Mild irritation, allergic reactions (rare) |
| Hyaluronic acid [19, 34–36] | Primarily hydration may bind to cell receptors influencing ECM synthesis and may promote collagen synthesis | It may indirectly support elastin through hydration and improved fibroblast function | Mild irritation, redness, dryness, allergic reactions (rare) |
| Bakuchiol [12, 20, 37, 38] | Functional analog of retinol, upregulates collagen and ECM enzymes, modulates retinoic acid receptor gene | Stimulates elastin synthesis and maintains levels | Mild redness, irritation, dryness (initially) |
| Alpha hydroxy acids [2, 9, 18] | Promote desquamation, stimulate fibroblasts, increase collagen synthesis, may release growth factors | Enhance skin rejuvenation by boosting elastin synthesis | Sensitivity to sunlight, irritation, redness, peeling, blistering |
| Topical growth factors [19, 22, 39–41] | Bind to cell receptors, activate signaling pathways involved in cell growth, proliferation, and synthesis of collagen and other ECM components | Stimulate cells to produce more elastin | Skin irritation, itching, burning sensation |
| Niacinamide (vitamin B3) [23–26, 40–42] | Precursor to NAD+, influences cellular energy, enhances collagen and ceramide synthesis, reduces MMP activity | Enhances the expression of elastin and fibrillin | Redness, itching, burning sensation (rare) |
| Ceramides [26, 28–29] | Primarily restore and maintain skin barrier, indirectly support skin health necessary for collagen and elastin production, some may directly stimulate collagen | Primarily support skin health, creating optimal conditions for elastin production | Generally safe, potential for allergic reactions to other ingredients |
| Polyphenols [30, 43, 44] | Neutralizing free radicals, reducing oxidative stress, and possibly stimulating collagen synthesis | Some polyphenols may increase elastin precursors and stimulate growth | Generally safe, potential for endocrine disruption in some cases |
The effectiveness of anti-aging cosmetics is not solely determined by the active ingredients they contain. Still, it is also influenced by their formulation, the mechanisms by which these ingredients are delivered to the skin, and interactions with the substances’ effects [45].
Cosmetic formulations vary widely, with common types including serums, creams, lotions, gels, masks, etc. Serums are typically lightweight, water-based formulations designed to deliver a high concentration of active ingredients that can penetrate deeply into the skin; creams, on the other hand, are generally thicker and more emollient, forming a protective barrier on the skin’s surface to lock in moisture and provide hydration [46].
The choice of formulation can impact the absorption and bioavailability of active ingredients. An encapsulated formulation may be more effective in improving facial skin quality compared to an oil cream; similarly, encapsulation of active component in liposomes may improve stability and enhance skin penetration, etc.
A major challenge in topical cosmetic applications is overcoming the skin barrier, particularly the stratum corneum, which limits the penetration of many molecules, including large proteins like collagen. To address this, various delivery mechanisms are employed. Hydrolyzed collagen peptides, being smaller in molecular weight, are believed to penetrate the skin more effectively and may reach the dermal layer where fibroblasts reside. Encapsulation technologies, such as liposomes and nano-carriers, are also used to enhance stability and delivery of active ingredients into the skin. Additionally, physical methods like sonophoresis (using ultrasound) and microneedling (creating micro-punctures in the skin) can be used to enhance the penetration of active substances like ascorbic acid into deeper layers of the skin.
Selecting an appropriate formulation and delivery system can significantly influence the amount of active ingredients that reaches fibroblasts in the dermis, thereby affecting collagen and elastin synthesis. The association of active ingredients like collagen with other components in a formulation can also positively impact their ability to stimulate collagen production.
While anti-aging cosmetic ingredients offer potential benefits in mitigating the visible signs of skin aging, their application can also be associated with various side effects and inherent limitations. A comprehensive understanding of these aspects is crucial for consumers and practitioners in aesthetic medicine.
Retinoids, potent vitamin A derivatives, are frequently employed for their established efficacy in promoting collagen synthesis and epidermal turnover. However, their use is commonly associated with a retinization period characterized by dry and irritated skin, pruritus, burning sensations, erythema, and desquamation; furthermore, retinoids increase the skin’s susceptibility to photodamage, necessitating diligent photoprotection; caution is advised when combining retinoids with other potentially irritating agents [32].
Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) — topical application can occasionally induce skin irritation, redness, and a transient tingling sensation; although rare, instances of skin or clothing discoloration have been reported [33].
Peptides — while generally well-tolerated, some individuals may experience mild irritation, erythema, or pruritus, particularly upon initial use; allergic reactions, though infrequent, are possible; the efficacy of certain peptides may be compromised when used concurrently with strong acidic formulations [17].
Hyaluronic acid — while generally considered safe, mild irritation, redness, or dryness can occur in susceptible individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin; rare instances of allergic reactions have also been documented [34–36].
Bakuchiol — some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin, may experience mild redness, irritation, and dryness, particularly during the initial stages of use [12, 37, 38].
Alpha hydroxy acids — their use can lead to increased skin sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation, irritation, erythema, and peeling; in certain cases, blistering has been reported as a more severe reaction [3, 39].
Topical growth factors may, in some individuals, induce skin irritation, pruritus, and a burning sensation at the application site; vigilance regarding potential local responses is warranted [40–41].
Niacinamide — while generally well-tolerated, rare instances of redness, pruritus, and a burning sensation have been reported; facial flushing, particularly around the nose and mouth, may also occur in some individuals [36, 40, 42].
Ceramides — while no common side effects are typically associated with them, individuals may experience allergic reactions to other ingredients present in the product formulation [26, 42].
Polyphenols have the potential to act as endocrine-disrupting chemicals [43, 44].
Thus, while cosmetic ingredients offer potential benefits in addressing skin aging, their use can be associated with various side effects and limitations, varying from mild and transient reactions to rarer, more significant adverse events.
Understanding these potential issues and considering individual skin sensitivities and potential interactions between different ingredients is paramount for the safe and effective use of anti-aging cosmetic products.
Further research is continuously needed to fully elucidate the long-term effects and optimize the application of these compounds. The current understanding of how anti-aging cosmetics influence collagenogenesis and elastogenesis reveals a complex interplay between various active ingredients and the skin’s biological processes. Significant evidence supports the role of certain cosmetic ingredients, particularly retinoids and ascorbic acid, in promoting collagen synthesis. While many other ingredients, including peptides, hyaluronic acid, bakuchiol, niacinamide, AHAs, and topical growth factors, also show promise in both in vitro and in vivo studies for their potential to support collagen synthesis and improve skin elasticity, the regulation of elastin remains an underexplored frontier.
Further research is needed to elucidate the precise mechanisms by which these ingredients impact elastin production and to determine their long-term efficacy in vivo. The importance of formulation and delivery mechanisms cannot be overstated, as they play a critical role in ensuring that active ingredients can penetrate the skin barrier and reach their target cells in the dermis. Consumers should approach anti-aging cosmetics with realistic expectations, recognizing that while some ingredients have a scientific backing for their effects on collagen, the overall impact on skin aging is influenced by many factors, including individual skin type, consistency of use, and the specific formulation of the product. Relying on evidence-based information and consulting with dermatological professionals can help guide consumers in making informed choices about anti-aging skincare.
Prospects for future research also concern the focus on further investigating the molecular mechanisms and in vivo efficacy of various ingredients in stimulating elastin synthesis, as this area currently has less robust scientific support compared to collagen stimulation. It is promising to conduct more long-term clinical studies to evaluate the sustained effects of different anti-aging cosmetic ingredients on collagen and elastin production and overall skin health. The development of novel and more effective delivery systems that can enhance the penetration of active ingredients through the skin barrier to reach fibroblasts in the dermis should be explored. The methodologies used in both in vitro and in vivo studies for evaluating the efficacy of anti-aging cosmetics to allow for better comparison of results across different research groups need to be standardized. The potential synergistic effects of combining different active ingredients in cosmetic formulations to optimize their impact on collagenogenesis and elastogenesis are awaiting investigation.
Conclusions
Anti-aging cosmetic ingredients such as retinoids, ascorbic acid, peptides, hyaluronic acid, bakuchiol, alpha hydroxy acids, topical growth factors, niacinamide (vitamin B3), ceramides, polyphenols demonstrate clear scientific evidence of enhancing collagen production and positively influencing skin appearance through direct fibroblast stimulation and ECM gene modulation.
Although numerous active ingredients show promise in stimulating elastogenesis, evidence for effectively enhancing elastin synthesis remains less robust than collagen stimulation, highlighting a key challenge in cosmetic dermatology.
Formulation and delivery systems influence the effectiveness of anti-aging cosmetics; advancements in encapsulation and penetration-enhancing technologies are critical for optimizing active ingredient delivery to the dermis.
Future research should focus on clarifying molecular pathways governing elastin synthesis, evaluating long-term efficacy through controlled clinical studies, and exploring synergistic effects of combined active ingredients to enhance the outcomes of anti-aging skincare.
References
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Інформація про автора:
Міщенко Іван Олександрович — засновник ТОВ «Група ВІА Дніпро», Дніпро, Україна. orcid.org/0009-0006-6719-8244. E-mail: [email protected] |
Information about the author:
Mishchenko Ivan O. — Founder of the VIA Dnipro Group LTD, Dnipro, Ukraine. orcid.org/0009-0006-6719-8244. E-mail: [email protected] |
Надійшла до редакції/Received: 16.04.2025
Прийнято до друку/Accepted: 24.04.2025
